Surf’s up: a day to remember as ‘Hawaiian’ waves hit the north coast of Northern Ireland
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Speaking to the News Letter this morning, Andy Hill, who owns surf shop Troggs in Portrush, was itching to get back into the water.
The 52-year-old former Irish national champion said: “That was the best day of the year so far in terms of the size and power of the waves. It was very, very stunning. I’m surprised there wasn’t any boards broken.
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Hide Ad“It was the atmosphere that made it so different. There were so many people spectating and cheering after every ride and wipeout.
“I’ve been surfing here since 1979 and I haven’t experienced anything quite like that. It was bigger than a crowd we’d get for any of the contests we’ve held here.”
He commented: “I think a large part of it was down to a post we (Troggs) put on Facebook and Instagram saying we were going to close the shop because it was too good to miss those waves.
“Aaron – my manager – couldn’t work and I couldn’t bear to be stuck in the shop knowing what it was going to be like.”
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Hide Ad“I think 55,000 people viewed that. It was one of our biggest posts ever.”
Andy, who is also a photographer, said: “It was a day none of us will forget. You had the big waves, Hawaiian-like, and you had the sun out. When you’ve got the light it makes the waves look even more spectacular. It made for some amazing photographs.”
He added: “The waves along the whole coastline were just amazing. To get the perfect waves for surfing you need swell waves generated from storms miles out to sea that have time to gain structure and co-ordination.
“Whiterocks would have been totally unsurfable yesterday. The waves were far too big.”
Andy and his son Ethan, 19, surfed all day at East Strand.
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Hide AdAndy said: “We got in at half ten and got out at about a quarter to four. I am absolutely broken today, my body hurts.”
That said Andy was keen for a quick return to the Atlantic Ocean: “I’m chomping at the bit to get back in the water but I’ve so much to catch up with in the shop.”
Former lifeguard Andy added a word of warning: “Conditions like that are not for beginners. During the summer we’ve got the RNLI lifeguards, but at this time of year you have to be more cautious.
“Respect the power and authority of the ocean, do not overestimate your ability and do not surf alone – those are the golden rules.”